The valley of a thousand Kasbah

The valley of a thousand Kasbah

On the southern slopes of the High Atlas, one finds opulent, richly decorated, tall and slender earthen Kasbah, « ksours » or fortified villages, which are flanked with square bastions and crenulated towers? This Berber architecture fascinates and challenges time with its mysterious ochre silhouettes.

From the heart of these mountains, the Dades wadi or watercourse descends the slopes to the bottom of precipices and abrupt canyons. It then flows out, grand and serene, between the arid spurs of the Djebel Sagho and the impassable barrier of the High Atlas peaks all the way to Ouarzazate. All along its meandering course, where it causes oases and fertile fields to flower, the Berbers built their fortresses. In the gorges of the Dades, which seem to diss. into the purple rocks, the « ksours » – end by continuous and windowless walls –back up against the unreal folds of the dizzying rock face. Austere Kasbah, soberly decor, alternate with their colleagues, slender soaring towers. All have born witness to troubled past where one sheltered from my tribes behind thick walls. Seigniorial buildings of the powerful Berber dynasies these Kasbah were the residences of Arab chiefs who dwelled there while they waged two expeditionary wars.

As you leave the Dades gorges, you cupon the proud Boumalne Casbah at an altitude of 1,600 meters. The Dades wadi branches off here toward the west. A little further along on its banks, El Kelâa M’Gouna comes into view. Thousands of wild roses spread their delightfully purgent. scent over fields of barley and corn. These flowers are cooked each year in the spring, distilled in place and transfo med into rosewater.

Between El Kelaa M’Gouna and Ouarzazate sits the rich palm grove of Skoura, founded in the 12′ » century by Yacoub el Mansour, which stretches over many kilometrs. It is traversed by a net work of narrow dirt paths which can be explored on bicycle or on the back of a mule. Surrounded by rose plantations at small luxurious gardens, unusual earthen silhouettes spring up between the palm trees. El Kebbaba, Dar Aichil, Dar Ait Sot Amongst this harmoniously designed li. bah, capped with elegant bride towers u engraved arcades, riddled with small niches and pigeonholes with cbevron-topped rhom-bus-shaped motifs; one finds the imposing Kasbah of Amerhidil. Built at the turn of the century, it is still inhabited. Protected by eroded, low, dry stone wall, its tall bouses, welded to one another by shared walls, form a rampart. This is interrupted by many breaks and by jagged towers. It is so perforated that the light pierces the sha-dows.

The valley of Dades is notched by adjacent valleys, more difficult to reach, which stretch right up to the foot of the impassable sum¬mits, like that of the 4,071 meter high M’Goun or Mount Anrhomer, which peaks at more than 3,600 meters. In these footbills, magnificent Casbah sit, populated by vast families, half way up, the rich Toundoute and the luminous Assermo Casbah are distinguished by the lime makeup they wear, which brightens the dusky hue of their puddle clay geometric tattoos.

Past Ouarzazate, the majestic fortified village of Ait Benhaddou stands on the other side of the Mellah wadi, backing on to a pinkish sandstone bill. All the harmony of this village and its enigmatic beauty reside in its tangle of houses and its red and ochre puddle clay Kasbah bristling with crenels and scored by geometric designs. Alas, today, only a few inhabitants still remain to face the progressive deterioration of the walls and mud roofs. Of the hundred families that previously made the « ksar » or fortress their home, notore than jour or five still live there. Classified as part of the architectural patrimony of the world, the ksar of Ait Benhaddou remains one of the most poetic villages of this region.

The Mehdia Casbah A memory that lingers in time

The Mehdia Casbah A memory that lingers in time

The Mehdia Casbah is a timeless reminder of the glorious past of the western Gharb region. Situated by Lake Sidi Boughaba, 8 km west of Kénitra and 32 km north of Rabat, on a rocky hill on the left bank of the Sebou River estuary, the Mehdia Casbah has a spectacular vista ever mavelous countryside.

The Mehdia Casbah, which was decreed part of the national patrimony in 1916, is an important element in the abundant archeo: logical and natural attractions that make the region a leading destination for cultural tourism. The Gharb region has everything: pre-Islamic sites (Tamusida, Banasa, Brigha, and of course, the Mehdia Casbah); tsïamic attractions (including El Basrah and Ouazzane); superb naturel reserves (the Sidi Boughaba Reserve and Lake Merja zarqa); and remarkable reminders of the colonial period (especially Kénitra).
Historians suggest that the Phoenicians first explored the mouth of the Sebou River, and geographers place the Casbah on the site of the city of Thymiaterion, founded by King Hanno of Carthage during his famous voyage.

However attractive these theories may be, however, there is no tangible evidence to support either. Moreover, in « Natural History, » pliny wrote of the sebou River which flowed near Banasa without mentioning any other nearby cities. There are also no traces of Roman settlements at the site because the Romans had commercial trading relations with cities like Tamusida and Banasa that were on the Sebou River and did not bother exploiting the estuary.
The Casbah, or AI Maamora as described by Charif Idrissi in « Nouz’hat al mouchtaq fi khtiraq al afaq, » proved a safe harbor for naval shipyards during the period of Abdelmoumen Ben Ali Almoravide. In « wasf Ifriquia, » Mohamed Ben Hassan Ouazzane descrlbed it as a small city built at the mouth of the Sebou River to protect it from invaders.

In the beginning of the 16 th century, Maamora was occupied by the Portuguese who renamed it « San loao da Mamora. » Their conquest only lasted 46 days because the Moroccans quickly regrouped and counter attacked, inflicting heavy losses on the invaders as they drove them out.
Although they occupied the port of Maamora, the Portuguese never achieved their principal objective of building a fortress because of the ferocious resistance from local Moroccan fighters. We are still unsure of the exact location and architecture of any buildings the ëortuguese did construct in spite of numerous foundations that oral tradition attributes to these invaders. Although these ruins are found at the foot of the hill on which the Casbah Mehdia is perched, there is still no evidence of Portuguese activity in the actual Casbah itself.

THE « CORSAIR REPUBLIC OF MAAMORA »

After the Portuguese were repulsed, the port of Maamora witnessed a period of decline that was reversed only with the arrival of pirates from different countries, namely England and Holland. During the 17 th century, the port became infamous among seafaring nations. under the rule of Captain Henry Mainwaring it even renamed itself the « Corsair Republic of Maamora. »
As their notorious activities expanded, the pirates wreaked such havoc on the maritime trade routes to lndia that the large European powers decided to take punitive action against them. The Netherlands Parliament; among others, enlisted the help of the Moroccans under regime of Moulay Zidane to try to neutralize them, finally, the Spanish sent a large military expedition to occupy Maamora and they succeeded on taking the port on August 6, 1614. Under the Spanish occupation, the region changed its name to « San Miguel Ultramar » (Saint Michael overseas). We are certain that the Casbah situated on top of the hill was built during this Spanish conquest. The large walls surrounding the Casbah and most of the interior buildings were constructed during the reign of Moulay Ismael.
The Spanish occupation lasted 67 years, during which period there were continuous attempts to expel the invaders. The resistance was led either by the followers of layachi, who founded of the principality of Salé, the Mauresques of Salé, or the dilayines. Victory was finally achieved under Moulay Ismael, the great Alaouite Sultan who entrusted Omar Riffi with the military operation.
Under the reign of Moulay Ismael, the Casbah took on the shape and colour of traditional Alaouite casbahs. The walls were entirely reconstructed and a great number of public buildings were completed. The remnants of these important works are still visible today, notably:
- dar El Makhzen, the military headquarters of Omar Riffi. The eastern section bas entrance halls, galleries, shops, ammunition storage, a prison, and wells with water storage;

The western part of his compound that served as a sumptuous living quarters built in the traditional Alaouite style;

- The masque, the baths, a school, a public building in which many rooms were used to stock merchandise,
and a small market near that building where traders exchanged goods either imported from or destined for Morocco’s international trading partners,

- The West Gate, which is among the most beautiful found in western Islamic countries, It was built to take pressure off the Fes-Salé Bridge that was the eastern entrance to the Casbah. The original eastern access faced inland while this West Gate, which was built during the Spanish era, looks out to the sea.

At the same time, Moulay Ismael also improved the facilities at the port of Mehdia. The increase of sea trade further amplified the Casbah’s importance and both its population and number of buildings dramatically increased.

Suddenly, in 1795, the Casbah’s prosperity dried up as Moulay Slirnane closed the port as a pre-emptive measure to keep out foreign countries that wanted to add Morocco to their expanding empires.

At the beginning of the 20 th century, French forces occupied the Casbah and evicted all its inhabitants who took refuge in the eastern section nearby the Casbah. It was this area that observed American troops landing on African shores on November 8, 1942.

After the French left; the Casbah became a tourist destination that still conjures up a long and fascinating past in spite of extensive damage to many of its buildings. Fortunately, the mosque has survived intact and is stilt used for daily prayers.

As visitors walk through the Casbah today, they understand why researchers accord this site a major importance in Moroccan history in particular and European history in general. The Casbah was one of the earliest combatants in the struggle to defend the country, and she can assure that Morocco takes her rightful place among the great nations who have the power to regulate international relations, especially in maritime affairs.

A visit stirs one to imagine the Casbah’s tumultuous history, a past that knew periods of prosperity and decline, and a history that witnessed the waves of inhabitants who filled its watts to the brim and then left it abandoned. Even though the Casbah Mehdia is still an almost inaccessible citadel that has suffered from time and neglect, a visitor will still be charmed by her unique architecture and spectacular views. The Kasbah is close to Media’s sparkling beaches, which are the happy playgrounds of summer fun seekers and a favorite fishing spot alt year long. Moreover, no visitor will want to miss the impressive lake Side Brouhaha and the nearby forest reserve that glues refuge to migrating birds during their north-south voyage .